The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted station. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with plump purplish grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.

"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and community plots throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Across the Globe

So far, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which features better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and over three thousand grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. They preserve open space from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots inside cities," explains the organization's leader.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.

Mystery Eastern European Variety

Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans bruised and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol

Additional participants of the group are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This plot has previously endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Production

Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of vines slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly create good, natural wine," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of producing vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," explains the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on

Grace Pope
Grace Pope

A passionate gamer and tech enthusiast with years of experience in game journalism and community engagement.